For a man especially, wearing a ring beyond the wedding band is a statement. For thousands of years, men have worn them to signal status, commitment, association, and yes wealth too. They send messages – that you’re not available, that you attended a particular college, that you are a member of a particular brotherhood or a more general group, or simply that you’re not afraid to display distinctive personal decoration on your hands.
There’s a wide range of messages that can be sent by a man’s ring. And if you want to see the widest range possible, you could do worse than visit L’ÉCOLE Middle East in d3 for its current exhibition, Men’s Rings: the Yves Gastou Collection.
The late dealer / collector Yves Gastou (he passed away in 2020) was known for his educated eye, eclectic tastes, and an ability to discover lost gems and new talents in art, design, jewellery and exquisite taste generally. From an early age Gastou had been fascinated by 18th-century antiques, but he also acquired specialities in Art Nouveau and Art Deco, Venetian glass, and most recently 20th century designer furniture – especially Ettore Sottsass and Italian design of the 70s generally. But he never confined himself to a particular period: as one commentator noted, “he was too curious, and saw beauty in objects that others dismissed”.
Beyond his work as a gallerist and the position as a design-world tastemaker, Gastou’s most defining idiosyncrasy was an insatiable fascination with men’s rings. He amassed a highly eclectic collection of better than a thousand, ranging from rings worn by ancient Egyptians to those sported by members of the Hells Angels.
“My father was always amazed by the ring,” said Gastou’s son Victor. “It was very avant-garde of my father to take the idea of men’s rings and explore notions of femininity, masculinity, context, and power in such a tangible way.
“He understood that offering someone a ring is very different to gifting a necklace or a bracelet. It is a promise of a strong connection, it elicits a reaction; there is magic in rings. When you have a beautiful ring, you touch it, and it becomes a part of you. My father’s collection is a way to keep him alive …”
This exhibition features 705 of the best examples from Gastou’s collection. These rings range across myriad functions, from wedding oaths to mystical amulets via statements of membership and confirmation of identity to a simple (or complex) willingness to delight the eye. At the exhibition’s opening Sophie Claudel, director of L’ÉCOLE Middle East, emphasised the place of the rings in the rich cultural heritage of jewellery but also pointed to a regional relevance: “This collection … also resonates deeply with Dubai’s unique blend of tradition and modernity”. The overwhelming response to our opening event is a testament to the vibrant art and design scene here, and we are excited to continue this journey”.
The exhibition is organised into five themes to allow an immersive exploration of the collector’s personal taste: Historicism, Gothic, Christian Mysticism, Vanitas and Eclecticism. Each tells a story, reflecting the collector’s unique personality but also echoing the original wearer’s own emotions, ambitions and memories – there’s a powerful connection between the object and its owner in these pieces.
The scenography features minimalist lines and a commendably restrained colour palette to allow maximum focus on the intricate details of the rings. There are three themes with different atmospheres – the ‘Dark Room’ offers a space for free exploration, evoking the ambiance of a nighttime street, the ‘Red Room’ embodies a more extravagant spirit and Gastou’s flair for provocation, the ‘White Room’ represents the collector’s mental space, his eclectic collection and his fascination with accumulating rings.
The exhibition had a very successful debut in Paris in 2018, then travelled on to Tokyo and Hong Kong in 2022 and Shanghai in 2023. New rings have been added to the selection for its fifth iteration in Dubai, where it opened to coincide with the 10th edition of Dubai Design Week. It runs Tuesday to Saturday, 10am to 7pm, to 26 April. Admission is free, but preregistration is recommended here.
Doge’s ring, c.1850; silver and carnelian
Eye ring, c.2010; metal and glass
Musical ring, c.1890; gold and silver
Bucrane ring by Marc Gassier, c.1960-70; gold
Afghan ring, 1965; low-grade silver and carnelian
Ring, c.1880; gold and synthetic stone
Bishop’s ring by Mellerio dits Meller, c.1890; gold and citrine
Ecclesiastical ring, c.1900; gold and amethyst
Portrait ring, c.1880; silver and enamel paint
Ring with Arabic inscription,1930; silver, enamel and vermeil
Eagle head ring, c.2010; silver & hematite
Roman soldier profile cameo, c.1890; gold, silver and agate
Spider ring, c.1960-70; silver
Be the first to comment